Before I could appreciate the delicious, no-frills dal, four innocuous pieces of fried karela (bitter gourd) caught my eye, seemingly lurking in the corner of my plate.
My feelings toward karela have always been less than favorable, as it has consistently tasted like undercooked nails in my past encounters. The four pieces of karela chips edging over my plate were, in reality, an unexpected culinary trap.
I picked one up, ready to crush it with the weight of my bitterness. But after just one bite, I found myself reconsidering the notion of disdain I held for it—much like the complicated feelings we sometimes face for those we love.
This was just one of the many surprises awaiting travelers like me in Sikkim, a state that does not impose income tax.
The privilege of summer snow comes at a cost
Touching snow during the peak of summer must be a privilege; experiencing the cool, pure air rush into your nostrils is an even greater blessing, especially when folks back in Mumbai are struggling with a sweltering 38 degrees Celsius.
Some trips linger in your memory due to their beauty, while others serve as constant reminders of nature’s power. Sikkim was both, and I returned with a newfound respect for the unpredictability of travel in the Himalayas.
Here are some insights that may be helpful if you’re considering a journey to Sikkim.
Expect higher expenses than typical
Traveling in Sikkim often costs more than many first-time visitors anticipate. A cab ride from Bagdogra (the nearest airport) to Gangtok, followed by another to Lachung in North Sikkim and back to the airport, can run up to ₹45,000 during peak season.
The reasons for this soon become clear. Distances are long, roads can be treacherous, and multiple routes demand specialized local vehicles and permits. Even seemingly short trips can take several hours due to mountainous conditions.
Drivers also charge extra—up to ₹4,000—for trips to Zero Point, which sits over 15,300 feet above sea level.
The stark and dramatic landscape at Zero Point leaves you in awe. The cold is biting, the air becomes thinner, and a hot cup of instant noodles never tasted so good. Meanwhile, transportation emerges as one of the largest expenses of your journey.
You can mitigate costs by opting for more affordable accommodations. Hotel operators may claim full occupancy, but there’s often enough availability (even during peak times) in the ₹2,000-₹4,000 range to help offset your cab expenses. Some rooms can accommodate up to four people comfortably.
The easiest way to cut costs is to travel as a group and share vehicle expenses—plus, joy multiplies when shared, like a warming bonfire.
Time is a more crucial resource than money
Like many travelers heading to North Sikkim, I aimed to visit Gurudongmar Lake. However, the road from Lachen to the lake had recently collapsed, rendering the route impassable.
If the road to Gurudongmar reopens soon, I’d advise against rushing. Many packaged tours compress North Sikkim into two or three exhausting days. While that might look feasible on paper, in reality, it can quickly become overwhelming.
To comfortably explore both Zero Point and Gurudongmar without turning your trip into a logistical nightmare, allocate at least four days solely for North Sikkim. Distances are misleading, the terrain is challenging, and weather-related delays are commonplace.
As you plan, keep in mind that the trip you envision may not unfold as expected.
When a map indicates something is four hours away, it’s wise to mentally adjust that to six or seven. Landslides, road collapses, weather disruptions, and permit issues aren’t anomalies—they’re part of the journey.
FILE PHOTO | People walk along a road with cracks caused by flash floods in Naga-Namgor village, Sikkim, India, October 10, 2023. (Reuters)
Prioritize North Sikkim before heading to Gangtok
After traversing the rugged landscapes of North Sikkim, Gangtok feels remarkably organized and allows you to recuperate, making visits to Nathu La more leisurely.
The cleanliness of the city was striking. Public spaces are well-kept, traffic flow is relatively orderly, and there’s a palpable civic pride that many tourist towns struggle to maintain.
Light up a cigarette in public, and you’ll see people panic on your behalf. “Hide in a corner; the police will catch you,” is a warning I received more than once. It’s a phenomenon I’ve encountered in some parts of Kerala as well, but the enforcement in Sikkim seems more stringent.
Leave as early as possible in the morning, as Nathu La tends to be crowded, and while the roads are wider, traffic jams can start several kilometers before your destination.
If you depart your hotel by 7 am, you can expect to return to Gangtok by noon after a quick stop at Baba Harbhajan Singh shrine and Tsongmo lake.
If solitude is what you seek, Nathu La might not meet your needs. The area serves as both a scenic and historical landmark, resembling a theme park.
Avoid single-use plastic bottles as they will be confiscated.
The military presence, common throughout Sikkim, can feel quite intense at Nathu La, where you are mere arm’s length from the border separating India and China.
A noteworthy place that deserves more attention is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology.
The museum provides an intriguing glimpse into Tibetan Buddhist history, philosophy, and iconography, including the various schools within the tradition.
FILE PHOTO | Tourists look at a collection of scriptures at an institute of Tibetlogy in Gangtok, capital of India’s northeastern state of Sikkim May 29, 2006. (Reuters)
It also quietly reveals the intricate political and cultural dynamics that have shaped the Himalayan region over centuries. Visiting this institute provides context for the monasteries, prayer flags, rituals, and symbols you’ll encounter throughout Sikkim.
Allow the mountains their time
If you can, set aside at least two weeks for a trip to Sikkim. It’s nearly impossible to explore the state thoroughly in just a week without suffering from travel fatigue.
Making Gangtok your base camp means you’ll need multiple days to explore areas like Pelling and Namchi in the west, on par with the time required to traverse the north. I chose to leave West Sikkim for another visit.
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Fatigue from the high altitude and prolonged drives adds up quickly. Trying to “optimize” your Himalayan itinerary too aggressively often leads to disappointment. Take your time. Be willing to drop a few itinerary items and simply revel in where you are.
Importantly, keep at least one free day before your return flight. Flight cancellations and delays at Bagdogra Airport are common, and that extra day can alleviate a lot of stress.
Sikkim is not a destination you can conquer with an itinerary alone. It calls for patience, adaptability, and a respect for the landscape. An open mind can yield unexpectedly delightful experiences, even with karelas.
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